In any mode EXCEPT clock mode, press and hold both buttons for about 4 seconds, or until the M/h or Km/h symbol appears.
Press and hold the right button for 5 seconds if you wish to bypass the settable odometer stage.
Alkaline batteries will work, but they don't last very long.
Use a ballpoint pen or other pointed object to press the "WHEEL" button (underneath unit).
The wheel calibration number will be displayed.
Press "TIMER" or "MODE"
Recessed button on bottom selects between miles and kilometers.
Alkaline Alkaline batteries will work, but they don't last very long.
Press the YELLOW button again.
After installing a new battery, use "SET" to select "KM/HR" or "M/HR". This is only a label. Reading is inaffected. To change reading between miles and kilometers, appropriate wheel calibration number must be entered.
Alkaline batteries will work, but they don't last very long.
Push the LEFT button.
Push the RIGHT button.
Miles/Kilometers may be changed at any time, and accumulated data will be converted automatically.
This unit features a "Freeze Frame Memory" function:
Push the LEFT button.
A76 Alkaline batteries will work, but they don't last very long.
Push the "Set" button.
Press the YELLOW button again.
(RT88 Wireless transmitter uses A23 12 volt battery)
Press bottom button again.
Press button "A" (lower left) again.
Press the GRAY button again.
Press the GRAY button again.
Press the GRAY button again.
push button 3.
Some older units, such as the Cateye Mate use penlight-type cells. These are adequate, but bulky.
Newer units that use "button cells" can run on alkaline "buttons", but the life span is much shorter than is the case with silver cells.
Most modern units use lithium cells. Lithium cells have a very long shelf life, which makes them particularly suited for a low-drain application such as a cyclecomputer. They are cheap, and have a consistent voltage output throughout their useful life.
Lithium cells are also used in watches, cameras, calculators, games, etc. You can buy replacements at most camera or electronics dealers, and even jewelers.
Mercury cells held more electricity for their size than others, and their voltage was very constant over their useful life.
Unfortunately, disposal of mercury cells is a serious environmental hazard, and their production is no longer legal. Many owners of older cameras are unable to find suitable batteries for this reason.
Avocet was the primary user of mercury batteries. Here's what they recommend:
"Models 20 & 30: 386 silver oxide, 1.5 volt. These were originally spec'd for 1.35 mercury which is no longer made. The 1.5 silver oxide is the closest equivalent and works OK with possible shorter life than the original mercury.
"Models 15, 25, 31, 35, 40, 45, 45tt: 675 zinc/air 1.4 volt. Originally spec'd 1.35 volt mercury no longer available. 1.4 volt works fine.
"For models 35 and 45 total reset is recommended before battery installation.
"For total reset, hold both buttons down for 35 seconds with battery out."
Silver batteries provide a good supply of power, but are fairly expensive. The silver batteries used in cycle computers are similar to those used in some cameras and calculators. If you go to a camera shop for them, don't let them talk you into using alkaline replacements. The alkaline button cells that replace silver cells are very cheap wholesale, and represent a very high margin for a photo dealer. Unfortunately, their dramatically shorter lifespan makes them a bad choice for cycle computers.
The Cateye Solar and Solar II used to use a special rechargeable silver battery, which was only available from bicycle shops. They were quite expensive, but they lasted longer than regular cells if the unit was stored in bright light. These SR44R batteries are no longer available, but the camera version, SR44/MS76 is satisfactory.
There is also a lithium variant, which is the size of a pair of these cells that seems to work pretty well too. It is commonly numbered as "DL 1/3 N
