headsets.html – major updates including instructions on adjustment of threaded headsets; added exploded diagrams; resized photos and added a photo of a “brinelled” bearing race. More to come — photos of disassembly/reassembly.
velos.html — added comments in favor of the Peugeot UO-8 frame.
tooltips/cartridge.html — added information about Velo Orange French-threaded bottom bracket.
raleigh26.html Minor update (fixed formatting of a list, and one spelling error)
home-drop.html — noted unavailability of commercial drop bolts, pointed to my own implementation, ran a spell check.
saddles.html — added information on saddle width. tire pressure and width, and suspension seatposts.
gears/index.html, gears/internal.html, braquets/index.html — I put the new Sturmey-Archer S2 into the calculators. SA used the same model number for a different hub in 1966.
speeds.html — added information about SRAM 10-speed systems
k7.html — added information on 9 of 10 on 7
k7-7.shtml — updated to indicate cassettes now no longer available
gearing/index.html — added links to more pages about gearing
seatpost-sizes.html and seatpost-sizes-m-z.html,: major updates and added encoded link to the Webmasters’ new e-mail address.
brakes.html — updated to provide a guide to the other brakes pages.
Links are bad, they are relative to this page. I suppose you should prefix all the link with a slash (/) to fix the problem.
Thanks for the updates, by the way!
Fixed. Thanks. The problem occurred due to all the added folder levels when we went over to descriptive URLs for the posts.
Have there been any recent changes to Shimano’s freehub cross-compatibility? I’ve heard that XTR and HF08’s use a larger body?
Some of the newer cassette bodies attach differently to the Freehub. The splines are the same except for Dura-Ace with aluminum bodies, as described on the site. You need to use a spacer behind the cassette with some combinations (4.5 mm for 7-speed on8/9/10-speed bodies, 1 mm for 10-speed on 8 or 9-speed bodies).
Yesterday I converted a 145mm 8-speed Tandem wheel to 135mm 7-speed with the help of Sheldon’s information! I didn’t want to “dish” the wheel and make it weaker, so I installed the older 7-speed freewheel on one side and removed 5mm from the other side. This is where I ran into a problem not covered on any site that I could find: 7-speed freehub bodies don’t actually fit 8-speed freehubs, though the reverse is true. The source of this lack of internet knowledge appears to be that “everyone” wants to “upgrade” to eight.
I didn’t take pictures, but you obviously have the parts if pictures are needed. 8-speed freehub bodies have a chamfer on the side of the hub flange. 8-speed hubs have a matching chamfer in the recess. The non-chamferred edge of a 7-speed freehub body will contact the hub here.
I’ve seen on the net that some “clydes” have discussed the possibility of 7-speed backwards conversion, but none have followed through. I don’t want to get into how I “clearenced” the hub, but I will say that this should obviously be done on a lathe!
This could be good information for an update “why backwards doesn’t work” using freehub photos you already have.
Sorry, I accidently said “freewheel” at one point where I meant to say “freehub body”.